V
r^
Lp
o.NoSoo^ft/.^M
^
3^
THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
BOOKS BY MRS, C. S, PEEL
WAR RATION COOKERY (EATLESS MEAT BOOK) ~
THE LABOUR SAVING HOUSE
NOVELS: THE HAT SHOP MRS. BARNET-ROBES A MRS. JONES
THE BODLEY HEAD
THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
BY
Mrs. C. S. PEEL
UNTIL RECENTLY DIRECTOR OF WOMEN'S SERVICE, MINISTRY OF FOOD; EDITOR OF LE MANAGE (''tHE queen"); DIRECTOR OF THE "DAILY MAIL " FOOD BUREAU
AND
IWAN KRIENS
CULINARY EXPERT AND FOOD SPECIALIST ; MEMBER OF THE
GORDON ROUGE (gOLDEN) ORDER OF MERIT FOOD AND COOKERY
ASSOCIATION ; MANY DIPLOMAS OF HONOUR AND SEVERAL
MEDALS ; MEMBRE DU JURY, PARIS SALON CULINAIRE
WITH A FOREWORD
BY THE RIGHT HON. J. R. CLYNES, M.P.
FOOD CONTr'^I.LE^
LONDON JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD NEW YORK JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXVIII
'■%\f''l^
PRINTED BY MORRISON AND GIBB LTD., EDINBURGH
A FOREWORD
BY THE RIGHT HON. J. R. CLYNES, M.P.
FOOD CONTROLLER
To shun waste, to get out of our foodstuffs the full measure of nourishment — these are essential principles in war-time cookery ; and I should like to see the w^ords '^Make do " on the walls of every kitchen in the land. Good, careful, thrifty cooking adds attractiveness to food, and none does it concern more nearly than the Food Con- troller, whose interest it is to see that food is put to the best use. A book which helps to that end should be widely known. Here the good housewife (whose goodwill and good temper have been a national asset in these times of shadow and anxiety) is shown the way by which to make the best of war-time foodstuffs.
Let us remember at all our hearths the bravery of the men who through perils of the seas bring food to our shores. Remember- ing that, we shall practise economy in a thankful spirit.
CONTENTS
CHAP.
I. General Notes on Food : Its Value and Preparation
II. Soups, Stocks, Gravy and Sauces
III. Fresh, Dried and Freshwater Fish
IV. Meat Dishes : with but Little Meat V. Meatless Dishes — Cereals, Pulses, etc.
VI. Vegetables, Vegetable Dishes and Salads
3
17 51
87 115 145
VII. Pastry, Puddings and Sweets : with but
Little Fat or Sugar , . .175
VIII. Egg Dishes ..... 205
IX. Bread, Cakes and Scones . . .215
X. Sundries, including Pocket Lunches and
Invalid Dishes .... 227
CHAPTER I
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD: ITS VALUE AND PREPARATION
Fools can waste: it needs intelligence to cook economically.
CHAPTER I
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD: ITS VALUE AND PREPARATION
The Art of Making Do
The object of this Cookery Book is to help those who now have to cater and cook under circumstances which they have not formerly experienced. Conditions with regard to food change almost from week to week, and the housekeeper must take advantage of the market, buying intelligently of what is offered and then using it to the best ad- vantage. The art of substituting, of '' mak- ing do," must be largely practised ; if one material cannot be obtained then another must be employed. If there is but little meat, then we must turn our attention to those foods which best take its place ; when fat is difficult to procure (the most serious loss of all), we must, by taking full advantage of fatty foods, make up for a lack of butter, margarine and cooking fats.
4 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Economy in Material^ Fuel and Labour
The recipes which are given in these pages are war recipes, framed to economise material, and, where possible, labour and fuel; but as regards labour every cook will realise that made dishes, such as are now necessary, require more time and attention than the roast joint and plain pudding style of cookery so prevalent before the war.
Various Kinds of Waste
The recipes here given are lacking neither in nourishment nor in attractive appear- ance. The latter is an important point, for food which looks nasty, and, therefore, is not eaten with the good appetite which leads to good digestion, is wasteful. The word " waste " is one which has been heard often of late, and truly we were a terribly wasteful people, for not only did we throw food fit for human consumption into ash- bins and pig-tubs, but vast quantities of it were wasted by bad or improper cooking and by careless eating and treatment at table. Bread was crumbled and food left on plates. Bones, skin and gristle should not have found their way on to plates
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 5
thence to be thrown away, but have come to their rightful end in the stock-pot. In addition, we wasted by failing to masticate our food thoroughly, and therefore allowed a considerable portion of it to pass out of the body undigested. With greater know- ledge, care and skill, and an understanding of the fact that there is nothing to be proud of in waste and extravagance, it may well come to pass that we fare better though we eat less.
Food consists of five important parts :
1. Proteid.
2. Carbohydrates.
3. Fats.
4. Minerals.
5. Water.
Proteid
Proteid is of the greatest importance. It is essential to the growth of the young and to the maintenance of the frame and muscle of our bodies. It is found in animal as well as in vegetable foods. Meat, fish, eggs, cheese and milk are animal foods and nuts, pulses, cereals and vegetables are vegetable foods. The proteid contained in these foods acts in more or less the same manner, but
6 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
naturally much of their ultimate value depends on the method of their preparation. All these foods contain water ; some lose part of this in the cooking, others gain, and some gain much more than others.
Carbohydrates and Fats
Besides the proteid, carbohydrates — ^viz. starch and sugar — are present in most foods, particularly in pulses and cereals ; also in fat. These foods act on the body like fuel on a fire ; they produce heat and energy.
Starch and sugar have the same food value. All starch must be changed into sugar before it can be absorbed into the system. Fat has 2 J times the value of starch or sugar but is not so easily digested.
Minerals and Water
Mineral salts are present in all foods; they are medicine to the body, keep the blood healthy, and, with the assistance of water, keep the system clean.
Protein Foods
The foods containing a high proportion
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 7
of protein are : Nuts, cheese, meat (lean), fish, eggs, lentils, beans, peas, oatmeal, maize and wheat.
Starch Foods
The foods containing a high proportion of starch are : Arrowroot, cornflour, tapioca, sago, rice, barley, wheat flour, macaroni, oatmeal, pulses.
Fat Foods
The foods rich in fat are : Nuts, bacon, meat, cheese, yolk of egg^ eels, salmon, mackerel, herring, olives, maize, oatmeal.
Minerals
The foods rich in minerals are : Cereals, vegetables and fruit.
Sugar in Vegetables
Th vegetables especially rich in sugar are : Beetroot, parsnip and carrot.
Water
There is more water in meat and vege- tables than in cereals, and more water in
8 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
a marrow, cucumber, turnip or cabbage than there is in milk, although the latter is | a fluid and the former are solids.
Soups
Soups are an economical food because they may be made of material which could not well be utilised in any other way. Meat stock is not so economical as vegetable, and, unless the meat is served with the soup, is not so nourishing. Vegetables to- gether with cereals are the best materials to use for soup. To extract the flavour from the vegetables they should always be '' stoved '' first, then the water added, and cereals, potatoes or pulse added to thicken. Vegetables by themselves do not bind a soup ; some starch substance is necessary, and soups (except when clear) should always be of a fairly thick con- sistency. There is very little nourishment in liquids, however expensive they may be, and a clear meat stock contains no more food value than a clear vegetable stock.
Stock made from meat and bone is ex- pensive in the use of fuel, whereas vegetable stock is quickly made and the vegetables are available for other dishes after the
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 9
stock has been extracted — a fact which the recipes in this book amply illustrate.
Purees
In purees (that is soups passed through a sieve) the use of a mincing machine is ad- vocated instead, because this method saves labour and sieves. Purees should always be finished by a slight additional thickening, viz. 1 teaspoonful of corn or potato flour mixed smoothly in milk or water, to each quart of soup, added at the last moment and boiled once. This will prevent the thickening from sinking to the bottom of the pan, which it would otherwise do.
Too many ingredients should not be used in one soup ; the flavour should be distinct. Four oz. of onion or leek and | lb. of vege- tables, together with 1 oz. fat and 1 to 2 oz. of cereals, will make 1 quart of good vege- table soup. To finish, 1 gill of milk and 1 teaspoonful of flour must be added for the final thickening. Soups should not overcook ; the flavour will be spoiled and unnecessary fuel used.
Fish
Fish is a food of high value. The most
10 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
nutritious are salmon, herring, sprats, mackerel, eels and shad. Fish should not be boiled. Cooked thus it loses much of its nutriment, which is washed out into the water. Boiled fish also loses its flavour. The best methods of cooking fish are steam- ing, baking and " stoving," stewing or frying.
Meat
There is about 75 per cent, of water in meat, some of which evaporates in the cook- ing ; therefore the meat weighs less after cooking, but its value as a food has increased. Cooked meat becomes a concentrated food, which should be used as sparingly as possible. As a nation we have hitherto eaten too generously of meat. There is always fat present in the meat (even when it is what is termed lean) of a healthy animal, so that when we cook meat a certain amount of fat will become available for use with fatless foods, such as vegetables, fresh or dried.
Eggs
Eggs are dear, but the dried eggs now placed on the market are excellent food value. They can be used in the same manner as fresh eggs, but care must be taken not to
4
i
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 11
add too much water, otherwise they separate. The correct amount is generally three times as much water as egg by weight. If a dried egg is needed in a hurry, soak in warm water on the stove, and when the egg begins to rise beat it up well over heat.
Cheese
Cheese, raw or cooked, is a concentrated food, and should be used most carefully. It contains a large amount of fat, about 30 per cent, more or less, so to eat any other fat with cheese is extravagant and un- necessary.
MUk
Milk should be used sparingly by adults ; it is the food for children. There is about 3| per cent, fat and 3| per cent, proteid present in milk. Some people regard milk merely as a drink, but it is a food, and after it has been swallowed the casein becomes solid. Blended with well -cooked starchy food, milk is an ideal food for the nursery.
Nuts
Nuts contain a large amount of proteid and fat ; they should be chopped or grated
12 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
finely and mixed with other food poor in both these properties. Slightly grilled, they increase in flavour.
Pulses
Pulses should not be boiled in water ; such a method is too expensive in fuel and they absorb too much water, thereby enormously decreasing their value as a food. The best method is to soak them until they have absorbed sufficient water to fully ex- pand them, and then to steam them. In this manner they do not absorb more than their own weight of water, thereby retaining a high food value. They should be eaten with food containing fat, or cooked with some fat, as they are deficient in that parti- cular food. They are the substitute for meat of the vegetarian, and with fat or the addition of meat gravy they must now be employed by everyone to assist in economising meat. Some people suffer from flatulence after eating pulses, owing to the sulphur they contain ; if, however, potato or rice is eaten at the same time this trouble may be avoided.
Also, many persons digest pulses which have been sieved who find it difficult to digest them when served whole.
GENERAL NOTES ON FOOD 13
Cereals
Cereals are amongst the cheapest foods available. Nearly all foods, except cereals, contain a large amount of water. Cereals require water added in order to cook them. The smallest amount necessary for this purpose is the weight of the cereal. Some cereals, however, absorb much more than others, taking as much as four to five times their weight in moisture.
The more moisture absorbed in the cooking the lower the food value, for water has no feeding value.
All cereals should be well but not over cooked, and need to be thoroughly masticated.
New and Revised Methods of Cooking
Now that it is so necessary to economise fuel as well as food, our methods of cooking must be revised.
Various little known methods are sug- gested in this book, because they are economical of fuel and of labour as well as of food ; and although good results were obtained in former days from other styles of cookery, now we can only practise those which are economical.
14 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Casserole cooking is highly to be recom- mended, if for one reason only, which is, that the food being served in the dish in which it was cooked, washing-up is saved. For the same reason advantage should be taken of the many attractive fireproof dishes now on the market.
Sweating
Sweating means cooking very slowly in a covered pan so that the moisture in the food is extracted and then evaporates, while it helps to cook the food.
Fat and Oil
When oil is not procurable, use clarified fat, or vice versa.
CHAPTER II SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY AND SAUCES
»5
A bad cook wUl spoil the best materiaL
x6
CHAPTER II SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY AND SAUCES
^/
^ \ Soups
In these days meat soups (unless the "pot- au-feu or the Scotch broth, which is meat and soup in one) cannot be permitted ; therefore, when a clear soup is required, it must be a clear vegetable soup (see p. 22). All bones, gristle and skin, however, should be used for stock in which to cook cereals and pulses, and to make a foundation for thick soups, gravies and sauces.
A thick soup is a good beginning to a meatless dinner, and, provided there is a good supply of vegetables, a clever cook will seldom find herself unable to serve an appetising soup.
When bread is mentioned, rice or dump- lings might in many cases take its place.
Bone Stock
If bones, raw or cooked, are available for stock, break them small, place in cold water,
18 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
allowing about 1 quart water to 1 lb. of bone, and for every quart of stock to be produced add I oz. of salt. Bring to the boil and skim, then simmer on a slow fire with the lid on the pan until all gristle and meat adhering to the bones falls off easily. This may take as long as 12 hours in the case of beef bones, 4 hours for veal bones, 2 hours for chicken bones ; it is therefore impossible to give one time for stock-making. Vege- tables should be added only during the last hour of simmering, for if they were allowed to cook for as long as the bones their flavour would be entirely lost, and they would be useless for other purposes. Vegetables added during the latter part of the cooking flavour the stock fully, and are then still available for the table either as they are or in pies, salad, etc.
The correct quantities of vegetables to use per quart of stock produced are 2 oz. carrot, 1| oz. turnip, 2 oz. onion stuck with a clove, 2 oz. leek, | oz. celery and J oz. of parsnip, also 1 dozen peppercorns and a savoury faggot of half a bay leaf, an equal amount | of thyme and about | oz. of parsley stalks tied together.
Trimmings of vegetables should be used for stock, but only such as will not destroy
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 19
the stock flavour. Carrot trimmings or peel- ings, outside pieces of celery, are good, and even onion peeling may be used. The green tops of celery should be carefully used, or the flavour would overpower all the other flavours. The peelings of turnip are useless for stock, and the dark green of the leeks would also destroy all other flavours. This also applies in the preparation of vegetable stock.
When the stock is finished the fat should always be skimmed off first and carefully placed in a basin with water, left until cold, then removed and cleared for use. The stock is then strained.
All gristle and meat must be carefully taken off the bones, and should, when spiced and seasoned, be used for patties, pies and potted meat, so that nothing whatever is wasted. There is a good deal of food value in this gristle, and yet more often the stock, with hardly any nutriment, is used and the remainder is thrown away as waste.
This stock is then available for soups and sauces, and can be used in any of the recipes mentioned, instead of water, to the ad- vantage of the dish both as regards flavour and nutriment.
20 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Fish Stock
To make a quart of fish stock, place in a saucepan a Httle oil or fat, then 2 oz. of sliced onion, half a bay leaf, an equal amount of thyme, a dozen peppercorns (crushed), 1 clove, some mace the size of a pea and I oz. parsley stalks. Place on this 1 lb. fish bones, sprinkled lightly with salt and the juice of half a lemon, cover with the lid of the pan, and cook gently until the juice from the fish bones is extracted, then make up the quantity of liquid to 1 quart. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, then strain the liquor, draining well to extract it all.
Place the fish bones on a dish to cool, and if there is any fish, carefully pick it off with a fork and use for fish cakes. One lb. of bones sometimes gives 2 or 3 oz. of fish.
Vegetable Stock
(For Soup or for a Foundation for Gravy or Sauce)
Materials. — Carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, celery, cabbage (1 lb. of these vegetables mixed), | oz. fat (if possible allow 1 oz. of fat), J oz. salt.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 21
Method. — Cut the vegetables in small blocks about | inch square. Place the fat in the pot, add the vegetables and salt, cover with a lid and place over a very gentle heat. Stew, stirring from time to time until the vegetables become quite tender. Remove the lid, and when the fat is clear and a sediment has formed at the bottom of the pan similar to the dried gravy which forms in the tin when roasting meat, cover the vegetables with 1 quart of water and bring slowly to the boil. Do not stir, as that would cloud the stock. Let the mixture simmer for 15 minutes. Drain the stock well so that all the liquid filters through the vegetables. Stand for a few minutes to allow the fat to rise, and carefully skim it, reserving it for future use.
The stock will be perfectly clear, not unlike meat stock, except that it is sweeter, which many people like, but which if neces- sary can be counteracted by adding a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce*
The vegetables must not be thrown away but employed for vegetable cutlets, pies, or to serve with meat.
.Vegetables cooked in this manner have a far better flavour even after the stock has
22 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
been extracted, than when boiled in water in the usual way.
Treated as described, 1 lb, of mixed vege- tables and 1 oz. of fat provide soup and the main part of a vegetable dish. The stock should be used in the making of sauces in place of meat stock.
This stock may be thickened by using corn or potato flour mixed smoothly in cold stock and then added by degrees to the boiling stock.
Clear (Vegetable) Soup
This stock can be used for all clear soups by adding whatever garnish is desired.
Vegetable Gravy
A gravy can be made by frying the peelings of carrot and onion and a sprig of celery together in a little fat. When nicely coloured add a bunch of savoury herbs, cover with water, season with salt and pepper and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain, and if too sweet add a little Worcester sauce or vinegar.
Brown Vegetable Sauce or Gravy Materials. — | oz. fat, 1 oz. flour, Ij pint
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 23
of vegetable stock, 1 tablespoonful of Worcester sauce.
Method. — Fry the flour in the fat until it becomes nut-brown. Let it cool, and then add the vegetable stock. Stir until boiling- point is reached, then add the Worcester sauce and simmer very gently for about 15 minutes. The fat used will rise to the surface, and must be skimmed off and added to the store of cooking fat.
This preparation tastes and looks like a meat gravy.
For sauce boil the stock down until the thickness desired is reached ; season to taste, and it is then ready for use. When sauces are made in this way there will be no lumps, and straining is not necessary, except when a skin is allowed to form after cooking is finished.
If available a tablespoonful of tomato puree or one or two fresh tomatoes can be added, or the sauce may be varied by adding a spoonful or two of chutney, mixed pickles, mushrooms, etc.
Meat Gravy (Stoved)
Slice or shred 1 or 2 oz. of fat, place it at the bottom of a saucepan, cover with 2 to
24 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
4 oz. sliced onion and then | lb. trimmings of meat or slices of shin or ox cheek. Sprinkle with salt, cover with a lid, place over gentle heat and allow the contents to sweat so that the meat throws out its moisture. Continue to simmer until cooked ; turn from time to time until the moisture evaporates and the whole is thoroughly brown. If the evaporation is too rapid add from time to time a tablespoonful of water, but not more. Add 1 pint of cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes, but do not stir, otherwise the gravy will be cloudy. Strain the gravy, let it stand for a few minutes, then remove all the fat, which should be added to the cooking fat and afterwards purified ready for further use.
This gravy is available for all sauces and vegetable dishes. The remaining meat, with onion and fat, can be used for pies, curries, stews, etc.
Meat prepared in this way instead of stewed retains its flavour and produces a much larger amount of gravy, which can be utilised to serve with dumplings, potatoes, pulses or vegetables.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 25
SOUPS Pot-au-Feu made with Ox Cheek
(A Soup and a Meat Dish)
Materials. — 1 lb. ox cheek, J lb. carrots,
1 lb. cabbage, 6 oz. turnips, 4 oz. shredded bread, 4 oz. onion, 2 oz. celery, ^ oz. salt,
2 quarts of water, 2 leeks, a pinch of pepper. Method. — Cut the ox cheek into six slices,
place in the boiling water, add salt, and simmer for 1 hour. Then add the carrots, turnips, cabbage, leeks, onion and celery, and cook until done. Remove the vege- tables. Dish up the meat, garnish with the best parts of the vegetables, cut the re- mainder small and return to the liquid, season, and add a pinch of pepper. Toast the shredded bread in the oven and serve separately, or add to the soup before serving, or prepare dumplings and add them to the soup and boil for 10 minutes.
Serve the soup first, then the meat and vegetables, with steamed potatoes in their jackets.
Farmers' Soup
Materials. — J lb. mixed vegetables, | lb. sliredded potatoes, 2 oz. toasted bread, J oz. salt, quarter-teaspoonful freshly ground
26 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
pepper, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 1 quart of water, 1 oz. fat.
Method. — Place the fat in a saucepan to melt, then shred the vegetables and add these to the fat but do not mix. Sprinkle lightly with salt and cover. Let the vege- tables cook over a gentle heat until the water contained in the vegetables flows, then mix with a spoon. Let the mixture evaporate until the vegetables take a very light colour at the bottom of the saucepan, then cover with the water and salt and boil. Add the potatoes, and boil until the whole is tender. Toast the shredded bread and place in a soup tureen, adding the pepper. Taste the soup, correct the seasoning if necessary, and pour over the bread, adding the chopped parsley.
Dumplings may be added to the soup instead of bread,, or small savoury balls.
The reader will observe that the pepper is not cooked but added just at the last.
Onion Soup
Materials. — 1 oz. fat, 4 oz. onion, \ oz. flour, 1 quart water, 3 oz. bread, 2 oz. cheese (grated), J oz. salt.
Method. — Shred the onion and fry in the
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 27
fat to a light colour. Add the flour, and bake together until a nice brown. Add the water and salt and cook for 15 minutes. Cut the bread in slices | inch thick and toast ; place these in an earthenware casserole, sprinkle with grated cheese and pour the soup over. (The onion may be removed and used else- where.) Sprinkle again with grated cheese and bake in the oven until of a golden brown.
Cabbage and Onion Soup
Materials. — J lb. cabbage, J lb. potatoes, 2 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. shredded bread, I oz. salt, 3 pints of water, pepper to taste.
Method. — Cut the onion into halves, shred crossways and fry in the fat. Cut the cabbage in four, remove outside leaves and stalk, wash and drain thoroughly, shred finely, add to the onion, and " sweat '' for 10 to 15 minutes. Add the potatoes, salt and water and cook for 30 minutes, then add the bread, and a little pepper if liked. In place of the bread 1 oz. of rice can be used, picked, washed and parboiled and added to the soup 15 minutes before serving, or 1 oz. vermicelli parboiled and added 5 minutes before serving, or macaroni broken into 2-inch pieces parboiled and then cooked for 20 minutes.
28 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Minestroni
Materials. — | lb. vegetables, 2 oz. French beans, 2 oz. fresh peas, 2 oz, macaroni or rice, 2 oz. cheese, 3 pints of water, J oz. salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of oil.
Method.— Heeit the oil in a saucepan, add the vegetables finely shredded and fry all together slightly. Cover with the water, add the salt and cook till nearly done. Then add the peas and French beans cut up and cook until done. (In winter use haricot beans and split-peas (soaked) and add at the same time as the other vegetables.) Fifteen minutes before the finish add the macaroni or rice, or 1 oz. of each. Before serving, skim the soup and add the following preparation : 1 oz. raw fat bacon, scraped as beef is scraped for beef-tea, 1 tea- spoonful fresh herbs, pepper, a clove of garlic.
Mix the bacon with the herbs and a pinch of pepper and the clove of garlic. Stir until thoroughly melted, and then serve at once. Omit the garlic if not liked.
Freshly grated cheese is handed with the soup, or 2 oz. may be added to the soup with the bacon.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 29
Cabbage and Potato Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, | lb. cabbage, J lb. raw sliced potatoes, J oz. salt, 1 quart of water, 2 oz. toasted and shredded bread.
Method. — Shred the onion and place in a saucepan with the fat. Add the shredded cabbage, and " sweat " all together until it begins to set at the bottom (see recipe for Vegetable Stock, p. 20). Then add the raw potatoes. Cover with the w^ater, add salt, and cook until tender (from 30 minutes to 1 hour). Season to taste, and serve with the toasted and shredded bread.
Vegetable Puree
Materials. — | lb. vegetables, | pint of cooked pulse or 2 oz. raw rice, 1 quart of water, J oz. salt, 1 teaspoonful of potato or corn flour, 1 gill of milk.
Method. — '' Sweat " the vegetables as directed in farmers' soup (see p. 25). When ready, add the cooked pulse or raw rice, cover with w^ater, add salt, and cook for 30 minutes. Drain the liquor off the vegetables and pass the drained vegetables and rice or pulse through a mincing-machine, and then return to the liquid. Mix the
30 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
potato or corn flour smoothly in the milk, bring the soup to the boil, then add the thickened milk and bring to the boil again. Taste and correct the seasoning, adding a little freshly ground pepper and 1 table- spoonful of cooked rice or any other garnish.
Mulligatawny Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. shredded onion, 1 oz. fat, I oz. curry powder, 2 oz. rice, 1 oz. chopped chutney, J oz. salt, 1 or 2 tomatoes, 1 small sour apple, bunch of aromatic herbs, half a lemon, 3 or 4 crushed cardamon seeds, 1 quart of water or stock, 1 teaspoonful of corn flour, 1 tablespoonful cooked rice for garnish.
Method. — Fry the onion with the fat, and as soon as the onion begins to cook add the curry powder and fry together. Cover with the water or stock, add the rice, chutney, tomatoes, the apple cut finely, cardamon seeds, herbs and salt. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes. Drain off the liquid, pass the drained material through a mincer, return to the liquid and thicken with the corn flour. Taste and correct the seasoning, add the lemon juice, and garnish with cooked rice.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 31
Salsify and Barley Soup
Materials. — 3 oz. pearl barley, 4 oz. onion, 1 oz. fat, I oz. salt, half a bundle of salsify, half a lemon, 1 gill of milk, faggot of savoury herbs, 1 quart of water.
Method. — Soak the barley for 24 hours, '' Sweat " the onion and fat in a saucepan and cover with water. Add the soaked barley, bring to the boil, and then add the salt and herbs. Scrape and wash the salsify, cut into chips, and place in the soup with the lemon juice ; cook till tender — about 1 hour or more. Drain the liquid ; pick out 1 tablespoonful of barley and also 1 dozen or more salsify chips, pass the remainder through a mincing-machine and return to the soup. Add the milk, correct the seasoning, and put the reserved barley and salsify into the soup.
Marrow Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. shredded onion, 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. maize semolina, 1 lb. vegetable marrow, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, a pinch of sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — " Sweat " the onion in the fat, add the vegetable marrow cut into slices, cover and simmer till the marrow is melted.
32 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Now cover with the milk and water, add the sugar, salt and pepper, and maize semolina. Cook for 30 minutes, and serve with toasted shredded bread.
Celery Soup
Materials. — I lb. celery (outside pieces), 4 oz. onion, 12 oz. shredded potatoes, 1 quart of water, J oz. salt, ^ pint milk, 1 teaspoonful corn flour, 1 teaspoonful freshly chopped parsley, some shredded bread.
Method. — Trim the celery by skinning the outside with an economic vegetable knife to remove the strings, and shred finely. '' Sweat " it with the onion, add the potatoes, water and salt, and cook until done. Finish with the milk in which the corn flour has been smoothly mixed, and simmer for a few minutes. Correct the seasoning, add the parsley, and serve with shredded bread.
O'Connor Soup
Materials. — A bunch of leeks, 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. arrowroot, 1 pint milk, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful parsley, 1 quart water, | oz. salt, a little nutmeg and pepper.
Method. — Cut the white part of the leeks into strips. The remainder (except the
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 33
green parts, which are too strong to use) boil in the water, and when cooked, pass through a strainer. " Sweat " the strips of leek in the fat without colouring them, then cover with the water in which the leeks were boiled. Add salt. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the milk, add the yolks of eggs, nutmeg and pepper. When the soup is ready and is reduced to 1 pint, add the thickened milk, etc.,. and stir over the fire until creamy, but do not boil. Add the parsley, and serve with sippets of bread.
Pea-Pod Soup
Materials. — | peck of peas, 1 oz. fat, 2 oz. leeks (or onion), 1| oz. flour, 1 pint milk, 1 quart water, 1| oz. rice or barley flour or 1 oz. tapioca, J oz. salt.
Method.— Take the pods of the peas, remove the strings, and boil freely in salted water until tender. Put the fat and leek into a saucepan and stew till tender, then add the flour, and cook for 5 minutes without allowing it to colour. Make into a white sauce with the milk and the pur6e made from pea-pods by pounding in a mortar and passing through a sieve. If there is no mortar available, it will do to scrape the soft part 3
84 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
from the skins of the pods and strain this through a sieve. Cook for 15 minutes, season to taste, add a few peas and a pinch of sugar, and bring to the correct consistency. If too thick, add milk or stock. The thickening may be varied by using rice flour, barley flour or tapioca. The rice or barley flour should be diluted with cold milk, and then added by degrees to the boiling liquor, then cooked for 15 to 20 minutes. Tapioca (French or granulated) is added 10 minutes before the soup is required. English tapioca should be crushed fine, put through a sieve and soaked in milk, and cooked in the soup.
Leek and Potato Soup
Materials. — 4 oz. leeks, 1 oz. fat, 12 oz. potatoes (shredded), 1 quart water, 1 gill milk, 1 yolk of egg, dried or fresh, or omit altogether, bunch of savoury herbs, grate of nutmeg, salt, pepper and a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Shred the leeks and stew in fat. Add potatoes, herbs, the water and salt. Cook freely until done. Place the yolk of egg in a soup tureen, add the milk and a little grated nutmeg, and stir well, then add the soup (slowly at first), and a pinch of freshly ground pepper and chopped parsley.
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 85
Shredded toasted bread is served with the soup.
Fish Soup (Soup and Fish Dish)
Materials. — 1 whiting, 1 mackerel, 1 sliced onion, 2 oz. finely chopped onion, 1 sprig of thyme, J bay leaf, 6 peppercorns, 1 tablespoonful oil, 1 tablespoonful salad oil, 1 lemon, 1 clove, 1 mace (size of a pea), 2 chopped tomatoes, herbs and parsley, 1 quart of water or stock, J oz. salt, pepper.
Method. — Cut the fish into pieces of 2 oz. each. With the heads, etc., make a fish stock as follows : Pour the oil into the saucepan, add the onion, bay leaf, thyme, lemon juice, peppercorns, clove, mace and a little salt. To this add the fish trim- mings, and '' sweat '' until a jelly is formed at the bottom of the pan, then add the water, a few sprigs of parsley, and cook for 20 minutes, then strain. Place the salad oil in a saucepan, and in this fry the chopped onion, adding the tomatoes and herbs, then the fish. Cover with the stock, and add the salt and a good pinch of mignonette pepper ; boil freely for about 15 minutes. Place three slices of toast, 1| oz. each, in a soup tureen and pour the soup over. Serve the fish separately to follow with boiled potatoes.
36 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
Eel Soup
Materials. — J lb. eel, 2 oz. onions, 2 oz. rice flour, 1 gill milk, 1 quart water, J oz. salt, 1 tablespoonful parsley and chervil, 1 tablespoonful oil, pepper, a handful of sorrel.
Method. — Cut the eel into slices | inch thick, chop the onions, sorrel, parsley and chervil. Fry all together in the oil, and when this is done add the rice flour mixed smoothly in the milk and sufficient water to make 1 quart. Stir until it boils, season with salt and a little freshly ground pepper. Simmer over gentle heat until the eel is cooked. Serve with sippets of bread. Mashed potato could be used instead of rice flour to thicken.
Fish Soup (Mock Bouillabaisse)
Materials. — 1 or 2 lb. of fish, — herring, mackerel, whiting and mussels, — 1 leek, 1 onion, toasted bread, pinch of savoury spice or herbs, 1 clove of garlic, 1 or 2 tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful of clarified fat or oil, juice of lemon.
Method. — Chop the leek, onion and clove
SOUPS, STOCKS, GRAVY, SAUCES 37
of garlic very finely, and fry in the fat, then add the tomatoes (peeled and coarsely chopped), parsley and a pinch of savoury spice or herbs. Cut the fish into pieces weighing about 2 to 3 oz. each — for instance, 1 herring cut into three pieces, 1 mackerel cut into four, 1 whiting cut into three, and a handful of mussels thoroughly cleansed. Place all in a dish, cover with well-seasoned fish stock and the juice of a lemon, bring to the boil, cover with a lid, and boil freely for 20 minutes.
Toast as many pieces of bread, cut J inch thick, as there are persons, place these in a soup tureen and pour the fish liquid on the top. Serve all together, or the soup first, followed by the fish accompanied by potatoes. A sauce may be served with the fish if desired.
This recipe provides a soup and a fish dish, which looks best when served in the casserole in which it was cooked.
Fish Mock Turtle Soup
(Made with a Cod's Head)
Materials. — Cod's head, 4 oz. onions, 4 oz. carrot, 1 tablespoonful oil, 1 lemon, 1 tea- spoonful basil, half-teaspoonful marjoram,
38 THE VICTORY COOKERY BOOK
1 clove of garlic, 1 bay leaf and equal amount thyme, 1 dozen peppercorns, 6 allspice, 1 dozen corianders, 1 bunch parsley stalks, 3 pints water, 3 oz. baked flour.
Method. — Slice the